We Spent 8 Days Drinking Natural Wine & Walking Around Copenhagen
Cobblestone streets, summer hygge and spicy fried chicken sandwiches.
Where does one even begin to describe the magic that is Copenhagen? Nestled amidst coastal islands, Denmark’s capital is incredibly friendly and detail-focused with excellent food, simple-to-navigate public transportation, stunning art museums and an impeccable approach to design. Not to mention most Danes are fluent in English, which makes it very convenient as an American! It’s easy to see why it is one of the happiest cities in the world — the relaxed pace of life, the biking culture, the endless canals, the colorful old buildings, the pastries!
After a whirlwind few years between the pandemic, a move across the country, fertility treatments, and investing a lot of time and energy into our work, Dan and I were so ready and thankful for a true vacation. While we definitely cherish restful trips by the water somewhere with no agenda, occasionally it’s more of an inspirational trip that we crave — doing a lot, seeing a lot, exploring a lot! Copenhagen is a place that holds special memories, history and friendships for my husband. With his 40th birthday around the corner, the timing felt kismet.
It was my first ever visit. I have always been inspired by Danish design and art, so I knew I would likely fall in love fast (spoiler alert: I did). We chose to do most things by foot, clocking around 15,000 steps a day. It was such a fun way to traverse different neighborhoods, stumbling upon cool shops and taking in all the lovely window displays and energy of the city. We had meaningful conversations, time with friends old and new, and balanced out a very full trip with takeout at our Airbnb, daily afternoon naps, a Thai massage post-jet lag and countless hours in the park doing nothing at all. I felt at home immediately.
Some trip highlights include:
The hotel fire alarm going off at midnight on our first night in the city, fumbling down the stairs in our bath robes and seeing filmmaker Darren Aronofsky (The Whale, Black Swan, The Wrestler, The Fountain) in the lobby!
Walking around the corner to get ice cream almost every single night. I could definitely get used to that.
The longest golden hour ever, with summer skies staying bright until around 10pm in the evening! A dream.
Picking up little trinkets at all the museum shops.
Buying a dress last minute to attend a short film documentary premiere that our friend did the musical score for.
Celebrating graduation for school kids! The party buses with banners, loud music, drinks and applause were out in full force. It was so freeing to act like an idiot dancing or cheering them on as they honked all down the block.
Afternoon naps with all the windows open, hearing families dining and playing in the community courtyard.
Laying in the park and pretending to be a local.
Waking up early before the crowds to see the more touristy spots.
Sipping the best vermouth, tonic and lemon on the balcony of our Airbnb. Definitely going to be continuing this ritual over the summer!
The color palette and tile patterns at Thorvaldsen’s Museum. I spent hours looking up, down and all around at every single detail. It was heaven!
Discovering the coolest antique, vintage and thrift shops in the city. I always love scoring an old treasure or two to commemorate our trips.
Homemade spaghetti carbonara at a friend’s cozy apartment. There’s nothing like a home-cooked meal when traveling. And lots and lots of wine.
Sleeping with two individual duvets on a king-sized bed and no top sheet. I’m surprised to say I think I prefer the Scandinavian way, and plan to implement this in our LA bedroom.
I’ve returned home with new traditions (lighting a taper candle every night!), deep gratitude, excitement for the future and renewed passion for upcoming projects. While I did a lot of reading and research ahead of time, we knew we wanted to keep things loose and decided not to make any set plans. Years ago when visiting London, I jam-packed my days with so much sightseeing that it made the trip unenjoyable and stressful. We wanted Copenhagen to feel spontaneous — to take our time and not tire ourselves out too much. I always love traveling with a thrifted old film camera. It’s a super basic point and shoot and the flash often randomly goes off, but it’s a nice surprise seeing how they turn out and forgetting what I captured along the way. Below is a snapshot detailing our adventure — a compilation of my personal recommendation list, film photos as well as tips from various friends and locals. Many we visited and others we will save for next time.
Bon Voyage,
Elise
Elise Joseph is a reader-supported passion project, with personal essays as well as special guest features each month. If you have the means to support, grow and sustain this work, please consider becoming a paid subscriber.
Bakeries
Lille
Hart Bageri
Juno the Bakery
Bageriet Brød
Andersen & Maillard
Lille was such a sweet spot that we ended up hanging out for hours and enjoying both breakfast and lunch there. Our Airbnb was right by Brød in Vesterbro, which made the best almond croissant I’ve ever had. We visited nearly every day. Hart Bageri is known for their Cardamom Buns, which sadly were sold out by the time I arrived, but everything else was delicious too. You must try Tebirkes (Danish Poppy Seed Rolls) when in Copenhagen, which are a beloved Danish specialty!
Restaurants
Lille Petra
Apollo Bar
Slurp Ramen
Seks
Atelier September
Reffen — Copenhagen Street Food
Gorda
Dzidra
BÆST
The Sixteen Twelve
Villette
Sanchez
studio x kitchen
Apotek 57
Barr
Baka d’ Busk
One of my favorite afternoons was spent at Lille Petra, a hidden gem cafe with bright, yummy food and a cozy courtyard. I could’ve stayed forever and already can’t wait to go back! Apollo Bar served whipped butter inside of a shell, and I will forever be changed by this.
Wine Bars
Pompette
Bar Vivant
Lille Blå Vinbar
Ved Stranden 10
Den Vandrette
Pompette is an absolute must in my opinion, and made for our favorite evening in the city. I highly recommend getting tipsy off their delicious natural wines, then ordering a spicy fried chicken sandwich from the takeaway spot (Poulette) by the same owner next door. Perfection. Taking in the energy of the city and people-watching at Ved Stranden 10 was also picturesque.
Museums
Louisiana Museum of Modern Art
Thorvaldsen’s Museum
The Finn Juhl House
Statens Museum for Kunst
Glyptotek
Designmuseum Danmark
Louisiana is a slight trek outside of the city, but totally worth it. This is a big statement but I’ll say it anyway: It’s the best museum I’ve ever visited. I mentioned Thorvaldsen’s in the highlights above, but if you are a visual person like me, you must go. Every single detail took my breath away.
Shops
Mr. Larkin
New Mags
Aiayu
Tōsei
HAY House
Holly Golightly
The Apartment
Studio Oliver Gustav
GANNI
Frama Studio Store
RAASTED
Kokoon
7115 by Szeki
By Malene Birger
There is endless great shopping in Copenhagen, but I specifically loved browsing the collection at New Mags bookstore. I came home with a beautiful magazine called The New Era, which centers around Scandinavian interiors, design, art and craft. Aiayu was a lovely discovery of responsible, elevated wardrobe and home essentials that I will definitely be buying online.
Other
Siciliansk Is
La Banchina
Hotel Sanders
Kebabistan
Assistens Cemetery
Rundetaarn | The Round Tower
Grundtvig’s Church
Sing Tehus
Tivoli Gardens
Do not miss Siciliansk Is for ice cream! Our friends Rasmus and Nan Na claim it’s the best ice cream outside of Sicily, and they are not wrong. Zuppa Inglese and Koldskål were my go-to flavors. La Banchina is at the very top of my list for anyone and everyone — it could technically be included under restaurant (or wine bar, or sauna, or harbor-side swimming hole), but it’s so special that it needs its own category. Plus, a late night tip: Grab the mixed shawarma pita with all the fixings from Kebabistan. It just hits the spot.
If you want to see more, I’ve created a Google Maps list for navigating (with well over 100 places!), and an IG Guide of my top picks. Or you can view my overload of travel posts saved to Highlights, including a couple of magical days in the Swedish countryside — here, here and here.
NOTEWORTHY
—Eight tips for next-level packing from the queen of all things fashion and style, Sissy Chacon.
—In the spirit of gathering with friends and capturing special moments, I’m excited to share the new Duende x Wiley collaboration — encouraging connection with self, a meal, nature or loved ones. Check out the exclusive ‘Golden Day’ print by Chelsea J. O’Leary and a curated offering of my finest vintage finds (if I do say so myself), which launched today.
—What flower remedy practitioner Alexis Smart brings in her “traveling medicine chest.” Her I Will formula was incredibly healing for me last year, and I will forever sing the praises of her work, lol.
PLEASURE
“The Magic Eye” by The Zenmenn. Dan got to see this band perform one night in Copenhagen with a friend, and we’ve been obsessed with this song ever since.
Candlesticks are everywhere in Danish culture, so I had to pick up this mirrored beauty from Copenhagen-based HAY. Romance!
My friend Nan Na of design studio Hvass&Hannibal creates the most stunning handcrafted textile pieces for Kibun, which means mood in Japanese. I’m eyeing this one for our living room.
CONTEMPLATING
Danish Design Goes Wild. A fascinating look at bringing bold, decorative tradition back into the culture.
The Story Behind Hans Wegner's Flag Halyard Chair. How the 1950s, string-wrapped lounge became a 21st-century icon — including an amazing photo of the man himself.
The Strategist Travel 100. An obsessively-detailed and thoughtfully-chosen list of essentials for any type of trip.